- RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY INSTALL
- RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY GENERATOR
- RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY PROFESSIONAL
There is no wrong answer as long as you are happy with the results. It just means I did my home work, came up with a design, and then put all the pieces together just to prove that I could do it myself. Now having said that in no way implies I am an expert.
RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY GENERATOR
Never once did I use a generator or my vehicle to charge the battery while camping. I also did a solar panel setup for my pop up and was fully charging the battery each day off one 100W solar panel. My senior design project was an actual solar power installation at a Navajo hogan we designed from the ground up (yes it worked). I am merely stating what the laws of physics (as we know them) dictate, practical experience, and my own independent research beyond what I learned in school.
RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY PROFESSIONAL
YMMV and if you aren't sure use your favorite form of research tool, seek professional guidance from a certified electrician, etc. So now you have heard it from an Electrical Engineer. Properly charging a battery will net you a 3-5 year average life span and it is not unheard of to get 8+ years if you are doing it right. Even cheap batteries aren't cheap and buying a bigger battery just means a bigger cost to replace in that 1-2 year cycle. A lot of people do but then they pay for it in the end by replacing a battery every 1-2 years because they constantly drained the battery below 50%. Since you can't really make your truck or RV shorter (realistically) most people tend to opt for bigger wiring.Īgain, this doesn't mean you can't use smaller wiring. Larger diameter wire = faster recharging. The power source can be a generator, your A/C wall socket, a solar setup, etc. One that you can program to the type of battery you have (AGM, Gel, Flooded), has a temperature sense line, and has access to enough voltage to properly charge the battery. There are lots of ways to accomplish this but it all starts with a quality charger. The only way to be able to rely on the battery to last more than a year is to fully charge it before you start using it.
Deep cycle batteries life curves drop off quickly if you deplete them more than 50%. Not saying you would with your #12 but you have significantly reduced the likely hood.Īt the end of the day though relying on your truck to charge your RV battery is not going to cut it. Now you have the added peace of mind knowing you won't over heat your wiring as well. Not much but it's still a gain and all you had to is up the wire size.
At best you are going to get a 60-70% charge no matter how long you drive it meaning you have a 10-20% charge you can use without significantly reducing the life of the battery.ĭo the same with a 8 gauge wire and what would the results be? About 10% more. Not a requirement as they tend to be more of a standard with RV's so therefor easier to use) and it will maintain the battery but by no means charge it. Running a 12 gauge wire from your battery through 6/7 pole connector (I also favor the 7 pole but that's just a preference. Let's get to being relevant to this topic. That's just for 30A max! Why? To reduce resistance so I can maximize the panel's out put to the batteries. I will be using 4 gauge wiring from the panels to the charge controller and 1/0 gauge wires from the controller to the batteries.
RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY INSTALL
I am an Electrical Engineer and I am in the process of designing a 200W solar install project for my RV at 30A max. In the event of over current under sized wires like to melt at best or catch on fire at worst. The smaller the gauge the wire the higher the resistance of the line over distance thus a higher voltage drop (potential) and a reduction in the ability to flow current (amperage).
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